Goa - Festivals @ whatisindia.com

With the majority of the population being Hindu, Goa has scores of festivals celebrated all around the year. All these festivals do not occur on fixed dates of the calendar year, since they are based on the Hindu calendar. Ganesh Chaturthi, undoubtedly, is the ‘numero uno’ festival of Goa. The non-Hindu festivals include Christmas and Carnival.

Despite the long period of Portuguese colonization, the Hindu festivals have retained their unique Goan character and are celebrated with deep fervor. In Hindu mythology, Goa is called the land of the Gods and with good reasons. There are hundreds of Gods and Goddesses with differing names, tastes, rituals and traditions. Most of these have remained unchanged over the centuries while others have adapted to the changing times and circumstances.

GANESH CHATURTHI or CHOVOTH

The most important festival in Goa is the Ganesh Chaturthi also known as 'Chovoth'. The festivities run into several days, but minimum at least for two and half days, when puja (worship) of Gouri (Lord Shiva's consort) and Mahadev (Lord Shiva) along with Ganapati, is performed. Goddess Gouri is drawn on paper and Lord Shiva symbolized by a coconut. Married women fast during these days. On the Chovoth day, in the morning or evening, a clay idol of Ganapati is brought home. Before that a matov (a small pandal above the place where the idol is place) is prepared with bunches of betel nut, coconut, bananas and branches of mango-trees being necessary ingredients of it. The puja of Ganapati goes on until mid-day and is performed with the help of the priest.

On the second day, in the evening or at night, after performing the uttar puja of the image of Ganapati, it is taken in procession and immersed into a water body - sea, creek, river, lake or well. Before the idol is removed from its stand for immersion, it is besought for the welfare of the household and its members.

On Panchami (fifth) day, in the evening, crowds of people move around the village to have a look at Ganapati. Women of the masses, dance and sing the Fugdi before Ganapati. Some houses keep Ganapati for five, seven or nine days and rarely up to Anant Chaturdashi.

SHIGMOTSAV

Shigmo in Goa is essentially a festival of the masses. Though it is celebrated under different names and in different ways in various parts of India. It is the festival of farewell to winter celebrated on the full moon day in the month of Phalguna (March), the last month of the Hindu calendar. In Goa, which has always been land of temples, Shigmo begins with Naman or collective obeisance of villagers from 9th moon day to full-moon day. During all these days, they are to 'Shun' non-vegetarian food and all intoxicants.

From the 11th Moon day to the 15th moon day, the village set out with multi-colored cloths, torans, flags and column-like red spoted "Dwajas", beating drums and blowing flutes to gather at the village temples, and dance in the temple court yard singing various folk songs.

The 5th day is called "Rang Panchami" - it is practiced differently at different places. The main function of the day, however, is the profuse use of 'Gulal' or red-powder. It's a symbol of rejoicing, when people throw it on each other as a sign of full-hearted greeting. A spectacular display of Goan Hindu ethnicity and mythology is on show as the annual Shigmo parade is held on the capital Panjim's 18th June Road. Attired in traditional costumes, various folk groups consisting of women and men dancers give vibrant performances of various dances. These are interspersed with mell groups that move along the route with their traditional Goan drums. The grand finale is always provided by artistically designed and beautifully lit up floats. The parade is also held on a lesser scale in Ponda, Vasco, Margao and Mapusa.

DIWALI

Diwali, or Deepawali, has a special importance through the last 5000-7000 years. It is the celebration of Lord Rama's victory over King Ravana of Sri Lanka. Deepawali, literally means a row of lights. During this festival, every house is lit with little earthenware vessels containing oil and a lighted wick, and groups of men and women assemble along the river bank setting these little lanterns afloat on tiny rafts and watching with intense interest the frail craft, as they float down streams. The festivity is in honor of Goddess Lakshmi, the consort of Vishnu (one of the trinity), Goddess of Wealth. Gold threaded saris are often exchanged, symbolic of the golden Age in the Hindu cycle of time, a time of purity and harmony.

Deepawali (Diwali) festival is a four day festival, which includes Laxmi Pujan, Narak Chaturdashi, Deepawali and Bhau Beej. Laxmi Pujan is the day, when people buy new utensils. Narak Chaturdashi is known as Chhoti Diwali (minor Diwali) when in every household 5-7 panteo (lamps) are lit on the door and corners.

Diwali falls on the day of Amavaseya, the next day of which is called Pratipad, when every kind of transaction, receipt or payment and business is postponed. On this day, many people try the their luck of gambling. Bhau beej falls on the next day, when the brothers visit their sisters, out of love and affection.

Twenty days after Dussehra, every house is illuminated on the day of Diwali, to commemorate the return of Rama after 14 years in exile. Crackers and cacophony, colour and colourful mood, crowd and noise, and celebrations. It is always celebrated on the darkest night of the year. The lamps signify enlightenment or upliftment of the mind and edification of the spirit.

GOKULASHTAMI

Gokul Ashtami is the birthday of Lord Krishna in Hindu mythology. One of the many avatars (incarnations) that Lord Vishnu appeared in the mortal world to destroy evil, was Lord Krishna. As per the Hindu calendar, this festival is celebrated in the month of 'Bhadrapada' (August-September as per the Julian calendar). Lord Krishna was born at midnight and hence most devotees observe a twenty-four hour fast which is broken at midnight. The festival is also known as "Janma Ashtami". According to the "Barhaspatyamana", the date for Lord Krishna's birth is thought to be in the year of 'Visvavasu', 5232 years ago around 3227 BC.

Gokulashtami is a community celebration with people visiting local Krishna temples, which are specially decorated and lit for the occasion. A special ritual of the day is enacted by the local youth who form human pyramid to reach the pot full of curds (dahi-handi) tied to a rope high above the road and break it.

A little before midnight, devotees pour into temples to participate in the special 'Arati' and to relive the birth of Krishna. Till midnight, devotional songs are sung in anticipation of the holy birth. Special cradles are installed at temples and a small statue of the "Balgopal" (child image of Krishna) is placed in them.

HOLI - THE FESTIVAL OF COLORS

Perhaps the most visually spectacular of the Hindu festivals celebrated in Goa, Holi is the festival of fun and playing with colors which people throw on each other. Holi signifies the end of winter and the beginning of the spring.

Different colors have got different meanings. Green: Compassion and understanding and a symbol of prosperity. Yellow: Optimism and also associated with Mother Earth. Red: The color of fire, the source of energy and security. Blue: Loyalty and trust. Pink: Love and compassion.

In some places in Goa, the night before the full moon, people gather to light bonfires to burn the dried leaves and twigs. The fire signifies the destruction of evil - the burning of the 'Holika' - a mythological character. On the next day, people of all ages come outside and playfully drench each other with colored water. Brightly colored powders are applied on faces, and there is plenty of music, dance and sweets.

LAIRAI JATRA

Shirgao is a small town in Bicholim taluka, east of Mapusa. The Shirgao Jatra is famous among devotees and tourists alike for the celebrated walk on hot coals raked from an enormous bonfire. The Jatra takes place in early part of May, when thousands of devotees of Devi Lairai descend on the small town and religious rituals and poojas dedicated to the Goddess are performed throughout the auspicious day.

The festival begins early in the morning and continues throughout the day. Men and a few women who participate, take a ritual bath in special water tanks located near the Temple. The devotees then walk all the way uphill to the temple as an act of penance, endurance, and worship of the Goddess. The evening brings more devotees who all perform the same ritual of worship and penance. Most of the devotees wear a peculiar type of dhoti (Hindu traditional dress) especially for the festival, a white t-shirt, a colorful cape around the shoulders, and a scarf-like cloth around the waist. Special flower garlands made from jasmine and other local flowers are worn by the devotees around their necks.

Late into the night, as midnight approaches, the devotees perform a frantic dance inside the temple which is all lit up for the occasion. The circular dance reaches a feverish high with a single drum beat denoting the end of that dance session. A new set of devotees enter the temple to start another session as the previous dancers go back down the hill to bathe once again.

After the dances, the final and most spectacular part of the Jatra then begins, when a specially chosen person races from the temple to a wooden pile and lights a massive bonfire with a blazing torch. The chanting and dancing then continues around the bonfire with the devotees touching the holy fire with their sticks. The devotees believe that the closer one comes to the fire, the more devotion and courage is demonstrated.

In the early hours of the morning when the fire has died down, the raking of the coals begins. Around 4 a.m., the actual ritual starts, with the devotees running through the hot coals carrying their sticks and shouting the name of Devi Lairai. Some devotees do the 'hot run' once, others do it several times. Those who have finished their run, then remove and throw their flower garlands onto a nearby Banyan tree and return home. The Jatra reaches its conclusion as the sun rises in the distant hills.

NAG PANCHAMI

Nag Panchami is marked as worship of snakes. In Hindu mythology, the cobra has a special significance and the earth, it is believed, rests on the head of 'Shesha' - the thousand-hooded cobra. It is a festival in the honor of the Snake God, Shesha Nag. Goans worship the snake by offering milk and doing Puja.

According to the Hindu calendar, Nag Panchami is celebrated in the month of Shravan (July-August). During the monsoon when the snakes come out of the pit they are worshipped as they protect crops from getting damaged by rats and other rodents.

The victory of Krishna over the Kaliya snake is commemorated on this day. For this reason Krishna is known as "Kaliya Mardan".

In the rural areas, the day generally begins with the puja of a mud replica of a snake. Then there could be singing of "artis" by the menfolk, while the women dance the exuberant "fugddi". The traditional Goan sweet called "patolleo" is made on this day.

It is a nature-friendly Hindu festival. On this day, the people abstain from ploughing or digging in the field or anywhere else, in a symbolic gesture of protecting the snakes, meaning wildlife.

GUDHI PADWA

Gudhi Padwa heralds the advent of a prosperous new year and is considered as one of the most auspicious days by Hindus. The Hindu year begins on the first day, "shuddha pratipada", of the month of Chaitra (March-April).

It is one of the most auspicious 'Muhurats' (auspicious timing) amongst the three and a half Muhurats that occur in Hindu calendar year. The day is considered auspicious for building or entering a new house, putting a child to school, or starting a business.

People get up early and clean their houses, decorating them with intricate rangoli designs. New clothes are worn, and sweets made for the occasion include shrikhand, basundi, jalebis etc. Many homes also decorate the pots with coconuts, flowers and mango leaves, symbolizing nature's bounty to all. On this day a pole called Gudhi is erected in front of the house. Padwa is another name for "Pratipada", the first day of the lunar month. A new cloth is tied on the Gudhi, a metal or silver vessel is put on to it and a garland of sweets is hung on it.

People welcome the New Year with Gudhi worship and distribute Prasad comprising of tender Neem leaves, tamarind, Ajwain, gram-pulse and jaggery. The Neem paste is believed to purify the blood and build up immunity in the body against diseases.

RAKSHA BANDHAN

Raksha Bhandan is celebrated on the full-moon day in the month of Shravan (July-August). The festival of Raksha Bandhan symbolizes love affection and feeling of brotherhood.

“Raksha” means protection, and “Bandhan” means bond, therefore, when a sister ties a Rakhi around the wrist of her brother, she signifies her loving attachment to him. The brother extends his wrist forward signifying an extending hand of protection. Raksha Bandhan is also known as Rakhi.

Rakhi is a sacred thread made out of traditional silk thread or any other material. To beautify the rakhi some design is weaved on the thread. Nowadays Rakhis are decorated with soft silky threads of various colours, and also with ornaments, pictures, gold and silver threads etc.

Preparations for the festival begin well in advance. The markets wear a festive look with the colourful, ornate and dazzling 'Rakhis' hanging loose or put on display for sale in shops that specially come up for this occasion.

RAMNAM (RAMNAVMI)

Ram Navmi, commemorating the birthday of Lord Rama, is observed on the ninth day of the waxing moon of the month Chaitra (March-April). Lord Rama is said to be the seventh incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Ram Navami is a nine day festival which starts from the beginning of the Hindu New Year.

On Ram Navami, the temples are decorated and the images of Lord Rama are adorned with flowers. The day starts with chanting the Vedic mantras dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Lord Rama’s devotees fast for nine days. The Ramayana is read or recited in the temples.

Fairs are organized in various places. The biggest celebration takes place at the Partgal Math in Canacona in south Goa where thousands of devotees gather to take part in the festivities.

SAPTAH AT VASCO

The Saptah, celebrated in the month of Shravan as per Hindu Calendar, is the only big festival in Vasco. The word Saptah literally means seven days and the festival actually lasts for a week, although the stalls selling various items linger on for more than fifteen days. The usually drab and sedate port-town wears a festive look with gay decorations and huge, noisy crowds visiting the temple and the stalls throughout the week. The festival which is more than a hundred years old, is celebrated in the temple of Lord Damodar in the centre of the city.

Legend has it that in 1898 there was a cholera or plague epidemic in the city. With the health facilities at the time being quite poor, the local residents turned to Lord Damodar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva for help. The residents of Vasco went to Zambaulim temple (near Margao) of Lord Damodar and brought a coconut as prasad to be installed for worship in Vasco. The initial installation was at the Old Mata High School. As luck would have it, their prayers were successful and the epidemic died out once the worship began. Later, a leading businessman of the time, donated a part of his residence premises to install the idol of Lord Damodar. This make-shift temple is the center of the celebrations and remains attached to the original house even today.

The Saptah starts with the main pooja being offered at the Old Mata High School, from where the anointed coconut is taken out in a procession to the Lord Damodar temple. The coconut used for the previous year is taken in a procession around the city and then released in the sea at Kharewada. After the immersion of the old coconut, the people return to the temple and anoint a new coconut amidst singing of bhajans (devotional songs). The bhajans continue uninterrupted for 24 hours.

The temple is located on the main avenue of the city, the Swatantra Path, and the biggest crowds are seen here. Consequently, the entire main road is closed for traffic for the seven days of celebration. Cultural programmes are also held during the weeklong festival.

CHIKHALKALA

This unusual festival is celebrated only in the small town of Marcel, about 17 km from Panaji, off the road to the temple town of Ponda. The festival is celebrated on the 11th day of the Hindu lunar month of Aashadh (June–July) and is actually nothing but a collection of various games that Lord Krishna is supposed to have played in his childhood.

It is celebrated when Goa’s open spaces are full of slush due to heavy rains. The festival is celebrated on a huge village ground which is surrounded by a number of temples. During the rains, the ground is full puddles of water creating a slushy platform for the games. Flowing water is also diverted to the ground to create extra slush.

The township of Marcel has people belonging to all castes and religions, and many of them take part in this mud festival wholeheartedly. Marcel also has lots of Hindu temples. In the olden times, many Hindus migrated to this township with their Gods to escape the religious persecution unleashed by the then Portuguese regime. Naturally, this township has a deep religious ambience with many devotees living here. The Chikhalkala (Mud Festival), is held in the courtyard of the temple of Lord Devki-Krishna, known for the unique idol of Lord Krishna sitting on his mother Devki’s lap, said to be the only one of its kind in India.

The festival is preceded by 24 hours of continuous Bhajan singing in the temple. On the day of the festival, male devotees wearing only shorts go around the town collecting oil from various shops. The devotees then smear the oil on their bodies and enter the temple to offer a collective prayer for the community’s welfare.

They chant “Jai Vithal, Hari Vithal” loudly, as percussion instruments like mridangum or pakhvaj and tal are played in the background. As they get immersed in the divine chanting, they again rub oil on to their bare bodies, from the nearby burning pedestal lamp and come out of the temple to enter the mud field. Music accompanies them as many more join the group. As the group comes to the field, the actual festival of Chikhalkala begins.

Before the actual festivities start, the ritual of distributing prasad (sacred offering) takes place. Townsfolk and visitors bring sweets and fruits for the players. They stand on the platform below the main Peepul tree on the ground and start throwing the sweets in the direction of the players. The players jump to grab the prized pieces making it an exciting spectacle for the viewers.

Then the players, young and old begin throwing mud on each other and virtually push each other into it. As each new player joins in, he is carried away to the slushiest part of the ground and dumped there. The chanting crowd then smears him with the slush until he is completely drenched. A large number of children can also be seen thoroughly enjoying themselves. The participants in the Chikhalkala are called Khelgadi. Locals believe that one can get cured of skin diseases and even cough and cold if they play in the mud.

These players are divided into two groups and play games like Viti Dandu, Chendu Phali etc. Players sing traditional songs while playing. The actions of players are rhythmic as they play to the background music. All the games are supposed to be enactments of the games played by Lord Krishna when he was a child. By afternoon, the games are over with the traditional breaking of the earthen pot of curds tied to the Peepul tree. The players then disperse to take a bath. They return to temple to sing devotional songs and once the prasad is distributed, the festival of Chikhalkala is over.

No one in the vicinity of Marcel can tell with certainty, the genesis of this unique festival. No legend, or folk tale tells us anything about this festival. It is said that the idol of Lord Krishna earlier belonged to the temple in Chodan (now Chorao), an island near Panaji, where Chikhalkala used to be played. Since the idol was transferred to Marcel, the festival associated with the deity too shifted there. The elders of the town believe in this explanation which may or may not be true, but that does not mar the pleasure and fun associated with this festival. Verily, Chikhalkala is one festival of Goa, which celebrates nature with great abandonment.

Reference:
http://www.goatourism.org/

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